Hatsukoiya

For many diners heading to Hatsukoiya, an izakaya in Tokyo’s Tabata neighborhood, the main draw is the abundant fish platter brought to the table. Daily sashimi selections often feature tuna, yellowtail, whale, and ark shell, arriving in substantial portions that make for a satisfying start. A thoughtful touch is the occasional serving of vinegared sushi rice on the side, allowing guests to assemble their own gunkan-style bites with whichever fish catches their eye. When an extra touch of indulgence is in order, a whole wooden box of fresh raw sea urchin—a frequent daily special—makes a fitting addition.

Alongside the raw seafood, negima nabe—a personalized hot pot of tuna and leeks—stands out as a house signature. Cooked in a flavorful dashi broth, it is a comforting small-pot dish that many regulars order to wind down an evening over drinks. The kitchen also turns out deeply simmered ara daikon, where fish collar and trimmings infuse radish with savory richness, as well as distinct house specials like "modoki nanban" and "hirekatsu modoki." The sweet and savory seasoning on these latter items makes them reliable companions to another round of drinks.

The drinks list is well stocked to match the menu, with a particular focus on regional sake. Selections such as Okunomatsu Yusa Junmai Ginjo from Fukushima, prized for its refreshing bouquet and umami, the crisp Chitosezuru Junmai-shu from Hokkaido, and the bone-dry Hakkaisan can be savored from ceramic tokkuri flasks, chilled or gently warmed. Beyond sake, the bar covers the essentials with bottled beer for initial toasts, classic Hoppy sets, robust Kaku highballs, and bottles of Kinmiya shochu for lingering sessions.

The wider menu branches out into comforting side dishes and Western-leaning izakaya bites, including deep-fried horse mackerel, fried oysters, toasted Tochio fried tofu with melted cheese, and sausage pizza. With seating split between an intimate counter and raised tatami tables, the dining room tends to fill quickly at dinner, making advance reservations a sensible move.